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Is Ren Clean Skincare’s Demise Imminent?

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PARIS — The fate of Ren Clean Skincare has hung in the balance for a while, but a memo recently sent to the brand’s partners seen by WWD gives a hint at what’s next to come. A memo dated late February from parent company Unilever addresses partners and outlines what is called “an important development” for the brand. “As part of our efforts to navigate current challenges, we have entered a collective consultation process with our employees and their representatives,” the memo reads. “This involves reviewing our operations to determine the best path forward for the business.” Related Articles Skin Care Rodan + Fields Enters Ulta Beauty Fashion Scoops Balmain Is Launching a New Fragrance: Blanc Galaxie The memo emphasizes that “no final decisions have been made,” but that Unilever is “committed to transparency and wanted to inform you at the earliest opportunity.” The language is vague but leaves open the possibility of the brand potentially being shuttered. When asked to comment on the memo, a Unilever spokesperson said: “We have shared with our employees that we are undertaking a strategic review of the future of the Ren Clean Skincare brand. As part of this, we have set out some proposed plans which are now subject to consultation. No final decisions have been made and we recognize that this is an unsettling time for employees, and we will do what we can to support them during the consultation process.” In its memo to partners, Unilever wrote that it remains committed to trying to supply Ren products and to meeting its commitments, while aiming to sustain uninterrupted service. “We will keep you updated on any developments that may affect our partnership,” Unilever wrote. Unilever — and the beauty industry — are undergoing sea changes, which are likely contributors to Ren’s fate. In late February, in a surprise announcement that sent shockwaves through the industry, Unilever said its chief executive officer Hein Schumacher was exiting the company after less than two years in the job. Ren Skincare’s #WeAreAllies initiative Courtesy The phrase, “We committed to doing fewer things, better and with greater impact,” became Schumacher’s mantra during his short tenure. On his watch, Unilever decided to separate the ice cream business, which will be separated by way of a demerger expected by the end of this year. Fernando Fernandez, Unilever’s chief financial officer and executive director, replaced Schumacher. Prior to becoming CFO in January 2024, Fernandez had a successful tenure as president of beauty and well-being, among Unilever’s fastest-growing businesses. At the time of the CEO announcement, Fernandez said in a statement that Unilever will now concentrate “on building a future-fit portfolio with an attractive growth footprint and delivering unmatched functional and perceivable superiority across our top 30 power brands.” Such brands generally generate upward of 1 billion euros annually. The prestige division has two brands knocking on the door of that status: Dermalogica and Paula’s Choice. Five brands exceed $100 million in sales — Murad, Living Proof, Tatcha, Hourglass and K-18, while Ren, Kate Somerville and Garancia, are thought to make less than $50 million annually. It had been said that Unilever was shopping around some of its prestige brands, including Ren and Kate Somerville, as part of the consumer giant’s wider efforts to streamline operations, boost profits and deliver more value to shareholders. In mid-June 2024 it was announced Vasiliki Petrou, who assembled the then 1.4 billion-euro prestige division through an M&A-based strategy over a decade, was leaving the company. She was succeeded by Mary Carmen Gasco-Buisson. Unilever acquired Ren Skincare in May 2015. The British brand had been created 15 years earlier by Antony Buck and Robert Calcraft. It positioned itself in the naturals category, which had by the time of its acquisition become among the fastest-growing skin care segments globally. The brand’s premium positioning complemented Unilever’s burgeoning prestige beauty portfolio, and the multinational planned to build on Ren’s global potential. By the time of its purchase by Unilever, Ren had built a committed consumer base around the motto of “performance; purity; pleasure.” The range of high-performance skin care was at the time predominantly in specialty stores and pharmacies, then branched out to perfumeries and department stores, as well. The natural and clean beauty space has become ever more competitive, with many brands trying to find their footing in the crowded space today. Most recently, Ren — which had added “Clean” as part of its moniker — was doubling down on its Clean to Planet positioning. The company had met its zero-waste promise by the end of 2021, with its packaging fully recycled, recyclable or reusable.

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